That's what the sign said this morning outside the John Paul II International Airport in Krakow. 51 degrees fahrenheit, windy, with dark clouds. Welcome to Poland.
It was a long and difficult trip, but we finally arrived. Tova's friends met us with tears and flowers at the airport, and once I convinced the marginally English-speaking son of her friend that I didn't want to go to their house, that I would be happier taking a cab into the city, they sped away and I was alone again. I will see Tova again on Monday in Oswiecim, and hopefully by then I'll be rested and in a better mood. Not sleeping is about one of the worst things I can do to myself.
I had e-mailed the hotel from the airport in Tel Aviv, so when I got here this morning, they had reserved a room for me, available at 2 p.m. I looked at my watch. No problem, only three-and-a-half hours to go. Then I found out that Poland is an hour behind Israel. So, okay, four-and-a-half hours to go. I called Tomek and Ola to let them know where I was and what's going on. Tomek spoke to the receptionist and got my rate reduced (he's friends with the owner), and we planned to meet for dinner later tonight. Aside from lack of sleep, I'm feeling a lot better just being in a familiar place all by myself. Hotel Karmel happily provided me with a chair and a desk, along with an ethernet cable, so I can work on the computer a little as I while away the hours.
Never ever ever again with the whole flying in the middle of the night thing. I don't mind so much the overnight flights because I can usually sleep just fine, but this whole getting to the airport at 3 a.m., being interrogated as a potential terrorist, dealing with luggage and tickets and wheelchairs and passports and security: these are not things I want to cope with in the middle of the night. I will never know why Tova chose this flight (it wasn't because it was cheap, at least on my end). I know from when I made my reservation that there were flights leaving later in the day.
I am seriously nostalgic for Jerusalem. The weather was in the 80s or 90s every day, hardly a cloud in the sky, all different kinds of people, a certain electricity in the air everywhere. It is a really difficult place to leave. Arriving in Poland on a cold, dark day like today really drives home the contrast, and also illuminates the specialness of Jerusalem that I just can't put into words.
That is not to say that I am not glad to be here, and looking forward to seeing my friends this evening and spending time with Tova in Oswiecim next week. I have always loved Krakow, especially this little neighborhood I'm staying in, Kazimierz. It has really come alive over the two years I've been coming here, and it's nice to see the attempt to revitalize the Jewish culture and origins of this part of Krakow. The Jewish Cultural Center where Tova will have her exhibit is also in this section of the city. Tomek, Ola, and I are meeting at eight at my favorite restaurant in Krakow, Fabryka Pizzy, which is just a block down from my hotel and something I've really been looking forward to. But first, sleep. Three hours to go.
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